Ever wonder what van life is like in the almost 256 square miles that make up the Canadian Province of Alberta? We did. Last summer, we dipped a tire into Alberta while visiting Jasper National Park in Canada. The Canadian Rockies here were scenic and expansive, and there was clearly soooo much more to see. Kyle from Autogenic Amusements is a van-lifer from Alberta. In this post, he shares some inside information about traveling and camping in this beautiful province. To check out more of his content, check out autogenicamusements.com
Van Life in Alberta is similar to many other places in Canada. One of the main reasons for coming here is to experience the great outdoors. Exploring Alberta in a van lets you truly see what this province has to offer.
Back in 2011, I first moved to Alberta from a small town on the east coast. Like many of us maritime expats, it was like seeing that the grass can actually be greener. I spent a few years being a city dweller before the true value in Alberta started to shine.
Eventually, I ended up in Calgary to pursue a life where leisure was my priority. Through a series of hard decisions and some leaps of faith, I ended up putting in some shallow roots in one of the best places I’ve ever lived.
While Alberta is considered a prairie province, with endless roads on flat terrain where you can see your dog run away for days, there’s more to it than just canola fields and beef cattle.
Situated on the east side of the Canadian Rockies, Albertans also get a taste of what it’s like to live the mountain life. There are plenty of outdoor recreation possibilities too, with massive amounts of crown land within the mountains and to the north. There truly is a lifetime of adventure here.
When you want to experience the outdoors in luxury, you also have access to some of the most famous National Parks in Canada; such as Banff and Jasper National Park.
Despite the harsh winters here in Alberta, there is still fun to be had. The mountains west of Calgary give you access to world-class ski resorts that often host not only the Olympics but also many other events that take advantage of the winter snow accumulation.
And for those looking to explore somewhere off the beaten path, the small towns with unique shops, the big cities with a plethora of food options, and the archeological adventures to be had, Alberta has a bit of something for everyone.
Table Of Contents
Alberta Crown Land (Public Land Use Zones) – Off Grid In Your Van
A Brief On Alberta Weather For Van Lifers
Van Life During Alberta Summers
Van Life During Alberta Winters
The Rest Of The Year Living In Your Van In Alberta
Alberta National Parks Guide For Van Life
Banff National Park – The Top Destination For Outdoor Enthusiasts
Icefields Parkway – The Most Scenic Drive You’ll Have Your Van On
Jasper National Park – The Rustic Destination For Van Life
Waterton National Park – The Hidden Gem Of Parks Canada
Alberta’s Big City Guide For Van Life
Calgary And Area In Your Van
Edmonton And Area In Your Van
Conclusion
Alberta Crown Land (Public Land Use Zones) – Off Grid In Your Van
Van life in Alberta is so achievable partly due to its plethora of crown land or Public Land Use Zones(P.L.U.Z) (same as BLM/ National Forests in the USA). While Alberta Crown Land Camping does require a fee of $30/ year to camp in them, they offer plenty of space and sometimes incredibly easy access to experience nature.
An overarching route in Alberta is called the Forestry Trunk Road, otherwise known as HWY 40. Along this highway that runs north to south, you’ll find many opportunities for hunting, fishing, hiking, off-roading, and camping. Beware that sections of this highway can sometimes be closed due to weather like avalanches, or even flooding.
Going west from a small town called Nordegg (heading east from the Saskatchewan Crossing Resort), you have what’s called the David Thompson Corridor, or HWY 11. Along this stretch of rustic and mostly wild highway are many camping, hiking, climbing, and boating opportunities. Some of the best van camping opportunities are located at the Preacher Point designated random camping area.
Sundre is another small town in Alberta that gives you access to the crown land along the Forestry Trunk Road. In the foothills here, you can find campsites ranging from small pull-offs to riverside sites that can fit a family of rigs.
If you want to remain close to Calgary, your best bet is to head into the Ghost PLUZ. While it’s technically closer to Cochrane, AB than Calgary, it’s the closest PLUZ to Calgary. This PLUZ attracts all types of backcountry users from off-roading enthusiasts, to marksmen, to campers.
Unfortunately, due to its popularity and proximity to the city, it can seem quite used and abused with tons of trees cut down and lots of garbage. There are no amenities in this PLUZ.
Another great area within a few hours of Calgary is Porcupine Hills PLUZ. If you want to get off-grid while exploring Southern Ablertas countryside, this is a great location to hole up and explore for a while. There are very few amenities in this PLUZ limited to some pit toilets scattered throughout. Its proximity to Chain Lakes Provincial Park makes it a good location to camp for free. The biggest positive to this area is the views you get from the foothills to the Livingstone range.
Another highly praiseworthy PLUZ is Livingstone PLUZ. This area is known for its access to the surrounding mountains. Livingstone is a less frequented area that offers lots of seclusion if you desire. There are also campgrounds within this area and trailheads with outhouses, but apart from that, there are no real amenities out here.
With the Alberta Crown land areas being as extensive as they are, it would be difficult to detail each individual site. For a more comprehensive look, check out all the different locations on iOverlander.
A Brief On Alberta Weather For Van Lifers
Van Life During Alberta Summers
While Canada may not immediately strike your mind with images of warm weather, lake days, and outdoor pools, the summers here are surprisingly mild. Alberta summer temperatures typically range from 20-30C (68-36F). The warmer months often present dryer weather too.
Unfortunately, these conditions often lead to many wildfires, and some Albertans refer to summers as the smoky season. Despite this, there are still plenty of places you can go if you need to avoid a certain area due to fires or smoke.
There is no shortage of activities to take advantage of in the warm and dry summers of Alberta. The hiking opportunities throughout the warmer months are plentiful with flat land nature strolls like Elk Island National Park, to the tallest mountain in Alberta – Mount Columbia.
Because of the latitude of Alberta, we often have very long days in the summer too. This means more time for activities and longer evenings spent around the campfire at your campsite.
As far as places to stay in your van during the summer months, you’re in luck. There are a plethora of options from campsites, crown land, and stealth camping.
Alberta is a fantastic place to be while living van life. The tolerable temperatures, the many activities, and the plethora of camping opportunities offer van lifers all the options they would need no matter what type of van life they live, whether on a budget or not.
Van Life During Alberta Winters
When other places in the world think of Canada, the Alberta winters embody this depiction. Often cold, and often snow-covered, Alberta winters are a tough time of year to explore the province.
While living here in the winter provides a tough challenge, some people tend to embrace it to enjoy what the winter has to offer, like skiing and ice climbing.
Unlike some places in the USA, highways don’t always close down when it snows. So, you might find an even larger crowd heading out to the mountains to take advantage of the fresh powder. If you plan on driving your van in the winter, be sure to brush up on these tips for winter driving in your van!
An interesting weather phenomenon happens in some places of southern Alberta just east of the mountains called a Chinook. A chinook is a wind pattern where warm weather sweeps across the eastern foothills and immediate prairies for a few hours to a few days. This respite from the bitter cold often brings the temperature above freezing and even into the teens (40s F)!
Generally speaking, van life in winter is difficult due to the frigid temperatures you have to combat in order to live. The temperatures can get as low as -61C (-78F). Additionally, the winter days are really short. Think “Go to work in the dark, come home in the dark”.
Unless you plan to snowbird (heading south for the winter) and avoid the harsh Canadian winters, it might be a safer bet to hole up in a hotel instead of trying to brave the elements.
We Canadians have come to embrace winter life. We don’t shut down for 6 months of the year, in fact, we take advantage of it. If you’re driven by a desire to chase powder and winter activities, Alberta provides a good opportunity to park your van where the adventure is.
The Rest Of The Year In Alberta Living In Your Van
Spring and Fall come and go quickly in Alberta, and Canada in general. The shoulder, or fringe, seasons in Alberta offer some more temperate temperatures.
The weather can be unpredictable during this time, so be prepared to be snowed on, have it melt, and leave muddy roads around. Hiking may include post-holing through snow, and swimming shouldn’t be attempted due to ice and colder waters.
Anecdotally, it has snowed every month of the year in Alberta from the prairies to the mountain tops. But don’t worry, the summer snow is usually quite short-lived. If you’re one to chase the snow, this bodes well if you want some spring or even summer skiing. It is possible to ski every month of the year if you include venturing out on glaciers.
These fringe seasons are nice for van life since you don’t have to deal with the extremes in temperatures or weather. They also offer some respite to the massive crowds in the national parks and the random camping spots since most of the fair weather campers don’t dare venture out when it gets chilly at night.
Alberta National Parks Guide For Van Life
Banff National Park – The Top Destination For Outdoor Enthusiasts
The most popular National Park in Canada has earned its title for good reasons. Banff National Park being in Alberta means there’s a world-class park to play in while visiting. If you enjoy the outdoors, this park is the place for you and your van.
To the north, you have Jasper National Park through the Icefields Parkway. Heading east, you’ll pass through Canmore and then onto the 1.5-hour drive to Calgary. To the south, you have provincial parks and more crown land than you’d know what to do with. To the west, you head into BC and its many beautiful parks.
Unfortunately, Parks Canada has pretty strict rules against stealth camping, but there are plenty of places to stay. Don’t risk stealth camping. The park is heavily monitored and patrolled, and rules are enforced.
Camping opportunities are mostly limited to National Parks campgrounds. Be sure to book ahead as the number of tourists who visit often book every single site well ahead of time.
Tunnel Mountain is a bustling campground that accommodates all sizes of dwellings. Two Jack Campground also provides many different styles of sites. From RV sites to walk-in tent sites, you can find a spot no matter what type of dwelling you’ll be sleeping in.
For restocking, there are a few grocery stores that should have most of what you would want to stock up on before heading out on more adventures. In town, there is an IGA, and a few more unique stores offering everything from basic needs to vegan and gluten-free options.
On top of groceries, Banff also has plenty of places to shower. Campgrounds will be a good option for showers, but the Fernland Recreation Center and the Banff Centre both offer drop-in showers. Laundry can be done at a few locations: Bow Valley Laundry, and Cascade Coin Laundry. Anything else you need? Check out the area on iOverlander.
As a climber, hiker, skier, and camper, I’ve returned to Banff over and over again. Even when the crowds seem overwhelming, parking is a nuisance, and trails are packed, Banff has a special place in my heart. Sometimes I don’t even mind a night at the Canada Parks campgrounds if it means being closer to the fun!
There are more hiking opportunities than I could possibly mention, but according to Alltrails, some of the most popular hikes in Banff National Park are Lake Agnes, Johnston Canyon to Ink Pots, and Sentinel Pass. While I’d love to outline all the hikes available, that topic deserves its own article and entire blog.
Another hugely popular attraction is the Banff Upper Hot Springs. There’s no better way to spend an hour or two when you need a break from the road. Open year-round, these hot springs offer a great way to soak in the views of the Banff area. Feeling retro? You can even rent an old school swimming suit if you don’t want to get your own clothes wet.
Skiing in Banff is world-class. There are 3 main ski resorts around Lake Louise, Norquay, and Sunshine Village. I’ve heard the locals say “Friends don’t let friends ski at Norquay”. Don’t listen to that. It’s an incredible resort for those who are not die-hard recreationalists.
For those who don’t dare brave the Canadian winters you can also take an adventure on the Mt. Norquay Via Ferrata route during the warmer summer months.
The park features some of the most photographed places on the internet like Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. The Lake Louise area is worth visiting just to see the lakes alone. It’s less of a shopping, dining, and accommodation destination, but gives you access to a lot of the outdoors of Banff National Park.
Keep in mind that parking is severely limited when visiting these locations, but there are shuttle options available.
While the Banff townsite is just another tourist town, it has many dining options to bring in the foodies. Don’t miss out on the opportunity to explore the many restaurants from pub food, to fondue, to sushi. Some of the best restaurants are The Grizzly Paw, The Bison, and Eden.
While some people tend to avoid National Parks, you won’t want to miss Banff. If it’s in your budget, Banff provides plenty of places to stay, restock, recharge, recreate, and have fun. Its popularity exists for a reason. Whether you stay for a week to really soak it in, or a single night when heading to other locations, Banff National Park is sure to please.
Icefields Parkway – The Most Scenic Drive You’ll Have Your Van On
Perhaps one of the most scenic drives in the world is Highway 93N – The Icefields Parkway. This “non-commercial” highway links Banff National Park to Jasper National Park.
You’ll see waters in shades of blue you’ve never thought possible, overhanging glaciers that look like you could reach out and touch them, and so many peaks you’d probably lose count on your way through. Since this stretch of road is so remote, you’ll likely encounter wildlife too, including bears and many other critters.
To the north, you have Jasper National Park. To the east, you have the David Thompson Corridor. To the south is Banff National Park. To the west are icefields and nearly endless mountain ranges.
There are plenty of camping opportunities with campgrounds along this stretch of highway. Since the highway belongs to both Jasper and Banff National Parks, your options are mostly limited to National Parks campgrounds. Some of my recommendations are Mosquito Creek for its proximity to the southern portion of the highway and Wapiti Campground for the proximity to Jasper and its amenities like showers, water, and a dump station.
Additionally, you’ll find a few hostels located along the highway, some of which are open year-round. If you need a night inside bricks and sticks, and not in your van, these hostels offer warm fireplaces and warm beds.
Worried about the distance between the two points of this highway? Fret not. Halfway through your drive, you’ll find the Saskatchewan Crossing Resort where the Saskatchewan River heads inland from the glaciers feeding it. This is an excellent spot to rest, refuel and get some road snacks.
If possible, try and fuel up prior to leaving since the fuel prices here are more expensive than in other locations. This is also the turning point into the crown land area called the David Thompson Corridor (more below).
Some of the hikes from the book “Don’t Waste Your Time In The Canadian Rockies: The Opinionated Hiking Guide” are located on this stretch of natural views. Here are some of the most popular: Observation Peak, Molar Pass, Twin Falls to Little Yoho Valley, Parker Ridge, and Wilcox Pass.
This place also offers a world of possibilities for backcountry skiing and camping. In the winter, you’ll see hoards of cars parked on the side of the road where daring individuals set out on ski touring adventures and snowshoeing. In the summer, once all the day hikers leave, you’ll see a few vehicles left behind at trailheads for those who enjoy sleeping under the stars on overnight hiking trips
The Columbia Icefields Glacier Discovery Center is a welcome respite if you can’t go a day without Starbucks. There is an excellent free interpretive walk that explains the history of the Columbia Glacier. Also, there are glacier tours where you’re driven directly onto the glacier.
Jasper National Park – The Rustic Destination For Van Life
This National Park is a bit more Rustic than its sister park of Banff. The parks resemble each other with lots of dining amenities, skiing, camping, and hiking, but differ in the high-class options that Banff has.
To the North of Jasper is the extending range of the Canadian Rockies. To the east is Edmonton via a 4-hour drive through small towns, forests, and agricultural land. To the south is the Icefields Parkway and further is Banff. To the west, you have Mt Robson Provincial Park (A must-see) in BC and roads that lead to all corners of BC’s interior.
Much like Banff, Jasper National Park also has some pretty strict rules against stealth camping. Whistlers, Wapiti, Wabasso and Pocahontas campgrounds are going to provide you with the best amenities for campgrounds that remain easy to access. With over 2000 individual sites, you might think it would be easy to get a site, but you should absolutely think about booking ahead, especially during the busy season.
For replenishing your supplies, Jasper has a few different grocery stores for all of your needs. Along with laundromats, sani dumps, and water refills, Jasper is a good place to restock, refill, replenish and recharge. Take a look at iOverlander to find all the amenities listed on their app.
For winter enthusiasts, Jasper National Park also has a world-class ski resort called Marmot Basin. While Jasper does not have the same amount of options for skiing as Banff, this ski hill is still sure to keep you entertained.
Jasper presents an incredible amount of hiking opportunities. While the trails won’t be as busy as Banff, you will still likely encounter others while on the most popular trails. Here are the ones you don’t want to miss according to All Trails: Valley Of The Five Lakes, Maligne Canyon Loop, and Sulphur Skyline Trail.
After your hike on the Sulphur Skyline Trail, you can take a dip in the Miette Hot Springs of Jasper National Park. Located a bit east of the Jasper town site, it’s a bit of a drive to just go there to sit in hot water, so adding on the hike ensures you can enjoy more out of your day.
The townsite of Jasper isn’t as friendly to larger vehicles due to its parking limitations and fees throughout the city. While there are plenty of spots to pay that are centrally located, it’s just as easy to park slightly further off the main strip and walk into town.
Waterton National Park – The Hidden Gem Of Parks Canada
Waterton National Park is what I like to call the hidden gem of National Parks. Being in southern Alberta, it gets a lot less traffic than Banff and Jasper. Similar to the other parks, there are phenomenal hikes here with a smaller amount of options for dining and a few spots for camping.
Unfortunately, due to the wildfire that ripped through the park in 2017, the image of the park has changed. What used to be thick forests lining the mountains into the town are now skeletons of the woods with grey trees, and a lot of them lying horizontally. Thankfully, there are plenty of areas that remain unaffected.
To the north of Waterton Lakes National Park is a lot of crown land in the foothills and mountains, eventually leading to Calgary via a 2.5-hour drive. To the east is prairie land. To the south is the Canada/ U.S. Border leading into Montana and Glacier National Park. Finally, to the west are mountain ranges bordering beautiful British Columbia.
Waterton has only one spot remaining for vehicle camping. The Townsite Campground offers all you’d need in a campground – showers, cooking shelters, water refill, waste dump, etc. Unfortunately, the most recent fire in Waterton has closed the other vehicle-accessible campground in town.
If possible, it’s highly recommended to do some camping in the area. Some of the backcountry campsites are a short evening walk from the parking lot to the campsites. These options make for a great way to get out after dinner and be able to arrive at your site with some daylight to spare.
Since Waterton is such a small town, there aren’t as many options as other National Park towns. It has some simple grocery stores, restaurants, and outfitters, but you won’t find many specialty services here. Your best bet is to head to Pincher Creek if you need something you can’t find in town. Thankfully, the lack of amenities keeps this park quaint and quiet.
The hiking in Waterton is world-class. You truly get a sense that you are in the wild outdoors when on the trail here. From my experience, the best hiking experiences in Waterton Lakes National Park are had on the multi-night trails that link multiple campgrounds together.
For those who are simply looking for day hikes, here’s what Alltrails recommends: Crypt Lake (My all-time favourite.), Bear’s Hump, Upper Bertha Falls and Bertha Lake Trail, and the Carthew Alderson Trail.
Additionally, albeit a longer day, take the boat to the Crypt Lake trailhead to experience lush forest switchbacks, two massive waterfalls, an alpine lake, chains and tunnels all in one day.
While I sometimes like keeping backcountry campsites a secret to keep their sanctity, I feel Waterton Lakes National Park is an exception to this attempt. Waterton provides everything you’d expect from a National Park, at a smaller scale than the other Alberta National Parks. Whether you’re in town to restock, recharge, or adventure, Waterton has what you need for a quality trip in your van.
Alberta’s Big City Guide For Van Life
Calgary And Area In Your Van
Calgary is the largest city in Southern Alberta and gives you access to everything you’d need in a city for van life. Restaurants, shopping, vehicle repairs, water refills, gyms, van builders, van rentals, access to the outdoors, this place has it all.
To the north of Calgary is a whole lot of farmland that leads to Edmonton. Heading East will take you out of the city along the trans-Canada highway. Southbound from Calgary you’ll come across Waterton Lake National Park and Eventually the Canada/ US border. West of Calgary are Banff and the Rocky Mountains.
Unfortunately, the last remaining campground inside of Calgary closed recently. So, for sleeping options, you’ll want to refer to iOverlander. You’ll find the standard sites like rest areas, Walmarts, and some other large stores, along with some other parking spots that are a bit more in the grey area.
There are plenty of recreation centers and chain gyms in Calgary for your showering needs. Most gas stations with a spigot will allow you to fill up on water. Laundromats are plenty and are usually well kept! If in doubt, refer to Google and iOverlander to see what the community has included.
If you’re in need of a van rental while in Calgary, check out Karma Campervans for a luxury option, Smile Campervans, and don’t forget Outdoorsy’s list of vans for rent in Calgary. If your van is in the shop this is a great solution to set yourself up with a camper van while your home is getting repaired.
With a population of over 1.5 million, the city has a lot of diversity and, thus a lot of great food. The main Asian supermarket in town is T&T, which offers many delicious options that aren’t as widely available. There are also a plethora of cultural restaurants from Ethiopian to Japanese and everything in between. Of course, Calgary has more Canadian-centered food options too.
No matter your need, you can probably find it in Calgary. On top of the normal stores you’d need for things like groceries and clothing, Calgary also has a number of outdoor stores for your wilderness van life needs. Stores like Cabela’s, MEC, Atmosphere, Canadian Tire, etc. offer shops that sell new camp chairs, camp fuels, and other van dwelling needs.
There are a few shops in town that are willing to work on vans like The Gear Shop (think suspension/off-road upgrades/ general maintenance), True North Custom Campers, Yama Vans, etc. Calgary also has dealerships and service centers for most vehicles including a Mercedes Van Center.
Calgary tends to be a quieter city in the evenings, but there are certain times of the year when world-renowned events take place. The Calgary Stampede happens in July every year – “hell or high water“, and features a roundup of all things western and rodeo-related. Featuring the greatest outdoor show in the world and headliners that bring in massive crowds, the Calgary Stampede is a 10-day event you don’t want to miss.
If you’re more of an outdoors person, the bow river, and the river pathways in the city offer a break from the hustle and bustle. The Bow River, which runs right through the middle of downtown, is world-renowned for fly fishing. There exists a provincial park within the confines of the city Called Fish Creek that features swimming, nearly 75 miles of multi-use trails, hiking, and even mountain biking for those evenings when you don’t have time to head to the mountains.
Mountain activities are a huge pass time for Calgarians. If you live a van life to pursue the outdoors, the proximity to the mountains of Calgary makes it an excellent home base.
Some of the more popular mountain hikes around Calgary are Mt Yamnuska, Prairie Mountain, Jewel Pass, and Wasootch Ridge.
Climbing opportunities are plentiful here too. While not all van lifers pursue life on the road for outdoor activities, a large portion of us do so for activities like climbing. The Bow Valley has so many options to climb that it wouldn’t be practical to list them here.
Further east is a place called Drumheller in the badlands of Alberta. This town hosts some of the most magnificent dinosaur history around at the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Palaeontology.
To the west of Calgary is a town called Canmore. What used to be dubbed “Vanmore” is no longer a van-friendly location as far as stealth camping goes. While this town does have its merits of amenities and proximity to the mountains and outdoor activities, it lacks the ability to stealth camp without worrying about getting fined or getting “the knock”. Here are some Campgrounds in close proximity to Canmore: Bow Valley Campground, Three Sisters Campground, and Wapiti Campground (close to the highway).
Edmonton And Area In Your Van
While Edmonton and the surrounding Prairies are not always seen as a destination for Van Life In Alberta, this city and area have their merits. While mostly consisting of a big city(with lots of amenities), being in the Edmonton Region means you get to be around some National Parks and you have a reasonable distance to travel to get to some of the more popular parts of Alberta.
To the north of Edmonton, you have many small towns, loads of forest lands, and eventually the Arctic. To the east is prairies. To the south are small towns and eventually Calgary. To the west, via a 4-hour drive through small towns and prairies, you’ll arrive in the Canadian Rockies. While it seems like a long drive, many people do this drive casually and frequently.
The city of Edmonton itself is a blue-collar city with many amenities like its shopping mall, loads of restaurants, its gorgeous river valley, and an international airport. Apart from that, it doesn’t really stand out as a place for van lifers over other similarly sized cities.
Heading East is Elk Island National Park. This park features all the amenities you’d expect in a National Park but also has Bison. While not the most popular National Park in Alberta, you shouldn’t skip this park if you’re in the area.
Edmonton might only be a place to stay if you have something going on in the area like family and friends, restocking, or van work. Despite this, there is a decent-sized community of full-time van lifers.
Conclusion
Whether you are here to visit the most beautiful National Parks, or you need access to the big cities, Alberta offers whatever van lifers need. With so much space and so much beauty, you’re sure to find something to do during any season.
I’d love to hear from you!
Have any other recommendations for van lifers who want to explore Alberta? A good campsite or a decent hike? Anything you’d like to add?
Let me know in the comments!